The girl with the octopus

So, how do you cook an octopus? Hot and fast? Low and slow? Cork, no cork? Whatever you do, remove the beak and curl the legs. Watch them coil and curl — retreating into themselves as if touching the scalding hot water breathes life and colour back into their body one more time.

Have you ever hovered near an octopus den and seen one glowing eye stare you down? The mound of clean, picked-over seashells